Contents:
Many changes are editorial, for essential new requirements refer to Annex 2. The CSM shall be drawn up acc. Applicable to High Speed Craft built on or after A copy of the DOC is to be retained on board the ship. Alternatively pressure sensors with monitoring system possible. The FSS Code contains the performance standards and engineering specifications for fire-extinguishing systems, smoke detection and alarm systems, fire-fighting personnel protection, inert gas systems and means of escape described in SOLAS Chapter II The changes incorporated in the new Code are intended to bring it into line with amendments to SOLAS and new recommendations that have been adopted in the past four years — for example, requirements covering public address systems and helicopter pick-up areas.
After this cycle pressure test has been carried out, the prototype test should demonstrate a bursting pressure of at least 5 times its specified maximum working pressure at the extreme service temperature. Phase out scheme from onwards is expected to be superseded by reg. Application to craft below gross tonnage to be determined by the Administration. The voyage data recorder VDR system, including all sensors, should be subjected to an annual performance test. An electronic chart display and information system ECDIS may be accepted as meeting the chart carriage requirements of this paragraph.
Back-up arrangements should be provided to meet the functional requirements if this function is partly or fully fulfilled by electronic means. Appendix 6 to resolution A. The plan shall consist at least of: AFS Annex 4. The jacketed lines shall be provided with means for collection of leakages and alarms. The number of joints to be kept to a minimum. The carriage of dangerous SOLAS 74 goods in packaged form shall be in compliance with the relevant provisions of that Code.
Editorial changes resulting from the implementation of the IMDG code, Part A covering packaged goods separated editorially from part A1 covering bulk cargoes. Appendix May MSC. Appendix November MSC. Ships built before However, to be applied only to ships constructed on or after Application Date Stowage of class 5. Further, not mandatory guidance is given with part B. Ships delivered after Flag state Authorities are urged with res.
The flag state Administration may allow continued operation beyond the date specified in 13G 4 based on satisfactory results of CAS as follows: Until the anniversary date of the delivery of the ship in or the date on which the ship reaches 25 years after the date of its delivery, whichever is the earlier date.
No practical consequences, as the the revised text is already applied from Any deliberate emissions are prohibited.
New installations Protocol 97 containing ozone depleting substances are prohibited, except new installations containing HCFCs until 1 January Does not apply to emergency diesel engines and engines installed on ships solely engaged in domestic trade, provided that latter engines are subject to alternative NOx control measures established by the Administration. Bunker delivery note to be kept on board, representative fuel sample to be kept on board.
Inspection to include lifeboat hooks, their attachment to the lifeboat and the on-load release gear system. Vessels, other than bulk carriers, constantly operating in warm climates, may be exempted from this requirement. Additional immersion suits to be provided at remote work and watch stations. Minimum clearance for passage between outer and inner side shell is mm between transverse frames and mm between longitudinal frames. Continuity between the side shell structure and the rest of the hull must be assured.
The failure of one structural member must not cause failure of adjacent members. Exemption possible for ships to be taken out of service within 2 years after the application date. For cross-references between regulations of the old and new Annex I refer to Appendix 3 of this table. For cross-references between regulations of the old and new Annex II refer to Appendix 4 of this table. Z sustances exp High speed craft AFS Annex 1 E However, potentially retroactive application dates for ballast water management are stated in reg. B-3 of the convention, starting in Suppression of fire Instructions, on-board training and drills 9.
Alternative design and arrangement Alternative design and arrangement may be provided based on an engineering analysis 9. A above m3 shall be provided with additional local fire-extinguishing systems at areas of high fire hazard Deep-fat cooking equipment Deep-fat cooking equipment shall be fitted with fire safety arrangements, including a fire-extinguishing system Means of escape Operational readiness and maintenance Regulation New or supplemented Requirement 1. Chapter V shall apply to any ship, vessel or craft irrespective of type and purpose 1.
Remarks Regulation New or supplemented Requirement Remarks Electromagnetic compatibility except warships and government vessels Approval, surveys and performance standards of navigational systems and equipment and voyage data recorder Carriage requirements for shipborne navigational systems and equipment depending on the Flag State: Search and rescue services Maintenance of equipment July existing ships of GT and more engaged on intern. July or by December which ever occurs earlier existing shipsof GT and more engaged on intern.
Voyage data recorders V. Records of navigational activities Record of navigational activities and incidents which are of importance to safety of navigation. Scope of application to be decided by flag state! July fitted with automatic position indicator e. July and 1. Depending on ships type, size, date of construction, range of service and decision of flag state Reg. January New and existing passenger- and ro-ro-passenger ships, as well as other new ships of GT or more!
In addition to the above, the new Chapter V contains amendments to the requirements of other navigational equipment, such as: Initial or consolidated editions of an IMO instrument can be used independently, while a publication containing only amendments should generally be used in connection with the latest available complete edition of the affected instrument. Amendments incorporated in consolidated editions are specified in the list by the same terminology as used in the tables of mandatory requirements.
Grouped under several topics they give guidance for the application and implementation of requirements not being defined precisely enough. Wherever possible, a reference is made to specific chapters and regulations of the respective instruments. The official IMO documents on the interpretations are listed in column 4: These interpretations and clarifications may be made mandatory by the national legislation of individual flag states.
Source Subject 2 3 4 5 6 A. Added the completion date of the survey on which the certificate is based. Amendments to the Guidelines for the transport and handling of limited amounts of hazardous and noxious liquid substances in bulk on offshore support vessels. Guidelines on the sampling method of thickness measurements for longitudinal strength evaluation and repair methods.
Life-saving appliances and arrangements Instrument Chpt. Safety of navigation, manning and transfer arrangements Instrument Chpt. Source Subject Safety of navigation, manning and transfer arrangements No. Management for the safe operation of ships Instrument Chpt. Standards of training, certification and watchkeeping Instrument Chpt. These authorizations include attendance to matters stipulated by the most important conventions concerning ship safety and marine environmental protection, which are supplemented to a varying degree by national safety regulations.
I stormed, and threatened the innkeeper and all his men for over an hour, but I was unable to get it back. The problem of the best mode of safely carrying thermometers over the rough roads had much preoccupied me, but the question was rapidly settling itself; breakage and thieves were 1 On the road between Pao-ting and very thin black earthenware, made T'ai-yuan I passed endless numbers at Ping-ting Chou.
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They are slabs of stone, eight or ten feet long and about three broad, set in small brick structures with ornamental tile roofing. In no other province of China have I seen such numbers of "road tablets. At Liang-t'u, about eighty miles south of T'ai-yuan, I noticed a fine, stone bridge of eight arches spanning the Fen ho. It is the only bridge over this river between T'ai- yuan and its mouth, but is no longer serviceable, its western extremity having been carried away by a freshet.
It is but little traveled. I found it a lively, The altitude of T'ai-yuan is approxi- dirty place, with wonderfully narrow mately feet. First came four mounted soldiers with pistols in their hands, followed by five open carts. On each was a heavy wooden cage about three feet square. Inside crouched a prisoner in red rags a sign that he was condemned to death , with a heavy block of wood fastened to one foot, sticking out of the cage, and with iron chains around his neck and body.
Two of them had been brought in these cages all the way from Di, in Turkestan, a journey of over four months, for no other purpose than to chop off their heads in their native province. Although cave-dwellings dug in the loess were seen at intervals from near Huo-lu Hsien, they became nu- merous only in the valley of the Fen ho. Among the poorer people these cave-dwellings are simply holes dug in the vertical side of a loess cliff, a sufficient thickness of it being left in fi-ont to constitute a wall for the dwelling; in this.
The better class of cave or cliff dwelling consists of a brick- lined, arched excavation about twenty-five feet long and twelve broad. The front is also of brick, and the floor is usually paved with tiles. Many of the houses in central Shan-hsi, which are not cave-dwellings, have been, never- theless, built in the same style, consisting of several vaulted chambers cf vered by a flat roof on which is a foot or mofe of earth. At Ling-shih Hsien, and for some miles to the south of it, the loess attains its greatest thickness, forming a range of hills which cuts the valley at right angles.
The river flows through a gorge, and along its side is a bridle-path, but the highroad crosses over the hills by a pass famous in Chinese history, the Han-hou ling alt. Every hundred feet or so a recess had been cut in the jliff where a cart could stop while one going in an 1 This pass is also called Kao-pi ling, Han-hsin ling, and Ling- shih ling.
We reached the top at dawn. A heavy iron-covered gate here closes the road, and a few inns are clustered around it where one can get a cup of tea, and some hot dumplings stuflEed with hashed mutton and cabbage, one of the few really good dishes met with in northern China. At Huo Chou we were once more in the valley bot- tom, and trundled on to Chao-ch'eng Hsien where we stopped for the night.
The Chiang ho, an affluent of the Fen, flows by this place, and over it is a bridge, which attracted my attention by its peculiar ornamenta- tion. While built, like most stone bridges in northern China, with parapets on either side made of sandstone slabs about five feet long and three high set between pil- lars, these slabs, unlike any I had seen elsewhere, were covered with comic bas-reliefs in which the chief actors were monkeys. The tops of the pillars, which are usually sculptured to represent lions, were in this case cut into cubes, pyramids, cones, drums, heaps of fruit, monkeys, etc.
Furthermore, at the north end of the bridge was a bronze or iron cow, about five feet long, resembling the famous bronze cow near the Summer Palace at Peking, although of inferior workmanship. Riehthofen esti- Biver we eontinually passed long mated the quantity of flour carried lines of carts, mule or donkey, car- north over the Han-hou ling at about rying merohandiee north.
The prin- tons daily, and tobacco, he says, cipal goods were cotton, tobacco, occupied nearly as conspicuous a briek-tea for Mongolia , cotton place in this traffic. Since leaving Peking, we had had the fine weather which invariably prevails in Chih-li during the winter months, but from T'ai- yuan it became overcast, and we had several severe snow- storms before reaching the Yellow Eiver.
This cloudy weather with occasional falls of snow continued during the rest of our journey through China, but we had very little windy weather, to my astonishment, for violent north- westerly winds blow at and around Peking nearly every day during this season of the year. I next passed through PMng-yang Fu, one of the most important pref ectural cities in the southern portion of the province, but now in a ruined condition, which argues badly for its present prosperity.
The rebels, years ago, a band of rebels, coming considering this an ungrateful treat- from Honan, entered the city quite ment, turned back, and destroyed the unexpectedly, but left again after city, killing a great many people.
When they were — Richthofen, op, dt, p. On the morning of January 5th, I came to the Yellow Eiver, where, meeting the Hua shan range, it is deflected from its southerly course, makes a sharp bend eastward, and enters a mountainous country. The river was between and yards wide, a sluggish, muddy stream, then covered with floating ice about a foot thick. On the Shan- hsi side were only a few hovels in which lived the ferry- men, and near-by, on the top of a loess cliff, the ruins of an old fort; while on the right bank, which rose rap- idly by a series of loess-covered hills to the dark, rocky heights of the Hua shan range, was the town of T'ung- kuan, one of the most important customs stations in the empire.
Rich- apparatus by which persimmon whis- thofen has estimated that there is key is distilled. The product produced annually about , tons tastes not unlike a poor quality of of salt from the marshes around it. One up to their hips. I experienced not a little delay, and a very considerable loss of temper, before I could even get the ferrymen to consent to take us over to Tung-kuan. After declaring for over two hours that there was too much ice -on the river to attempt a passage, they finally accepted the terms I offered them, and agreed to try it, but four hours more were lost before we could get together the crew of seven or eight men.
Three or four came, and after a while said that they must go and fetch the others who were smoking opium in their den ; when the latter finally turned up, it was without the first who had staid to have their turn at the pipe, so that at last even the stolid peasants who were waiting like us to be ferried across lost patience, and seized the heavy sweeps, and with but half a crew we pushed off, the boat so loaded down with passengers and my carts and mules that the ice came up to the gunwale.
While half a dozen men armed with poles and boat-hooks kept the blocks of ice from crushing down on us, the others worked the sweeps, with the usual amount of shouting and yelling indulged in by Chinese on such occasions, and in due time we reached the farther bank. T'ung-kuan, though not a large place, is, and has been from olden times, a point of much strategic importance, as the trunk-roads between Eastern China and the West and Northwest meet here.
Hence, also, its importance as 1 T'ung-knan is about miles off rapidly in the lower part of the from the mouth of the Yellow River, river, hence the terrible inundations and the river there is not over which at short intervals sweep over feet above sea-level. There is hardly Ho-nan and An-hui. The town is surrounded by high walls with two truly monumental gates, and other walls run for some distance along the crest of the hills to the east of it. At the inn where I stopped to breakfast I met the Nepalese tribute mission going Nepalwards.
It had left Peking about a month before me, but had come by the Ho-nan route. The mission was in no hurry to get home as the chiefs and even the servants were in receipt of a daily allowance from the Chinese government as long as they were in the empire, and were transported, fed, and lodged free of all expense, nor did they have to pay any duties or octroi dues on their goods, either when going to Peking or when returning home. There were about forty persons in the mission, a number of them Chinese from the Tibetan border-land or from Lh'asa, these latter acting as interpreters for the Goorkhas, with whom they conversed in Tibetan.
All tribute missions to the Court of Peking are treated with the same liberality as was this one, and as the members of such missions can bring to Peking a very large amount of goods to sell free of all charges, and carry back to the frontier of their own country an equally large quantity under the same favorable con- ditions, it is no wonder that the right to present tribute to the emperor is considered a valuable privilege, and is eagerly sought after by tribes and peoples living near the Chinese border.
The basin of the Wei ho, in which this part of the province lies, has been for thousands of years one of the granaries of China. It was the color of its loess-covered soil, called "yellow earth'' by the Chinese, that sug- gested the use of yellow as the color sacred to imperial majesty. Wheat and sorghum are the principal crops, but we saw also numerous paddy-fields where flocks of flamingoes were wading, and f niit-trees grew everywhere.
It was here that the late Mohammedan rebellion broke out, and direly has it suflEered for its ciime, for at present Hua Hsien's only claim to remembrance is the superior quality of its persimmons. I bought a large quantity of dried ones, and found them quite as good as represented, being, to my mind, far better than our best dried figs, and not unlike them in taste. For several months after a piece of bread and some dried persimmons consti- tuted my daily lunch, and, when among the Mongols and Tibetans, I found them a highly prized gift.
My knowledge of Chinese mythol- ogy is too crude to allow me to identify this deity, but 1 Eighteen miles west of Hua Hsien. Wei-nan Hsien was the largest and busiest place I had seen in Shen-hsi. A small stream flows to the west of it, and is spanned by a fine stone bridge with a very pom- pous name. The business part of the city is the suburbs. This is generally the case with Chinese towns in the north ; merchants by transacting their business outside of the city proper escape the payment of octroi dues, and travelers can reach or leave the inns at any hour of the night, while if they lodged in the town they would have to await the opening of the gates at dawn.
We next passed through Lin-tf ung Hsien, famous in Chinese history as the resting-place of She Huang-ti, the great emperor of the Chin dynasty, who founded the empire, built the Great waU, burnt the Confucian books and the literati. His capital was at Hsi-an Fu called in those days Ch'ang-an , and his tomb is in a hill, less than a mile to the southeast of Lin-t'ung, known as the Li shan.
Artificers were set to work to construct arbalists, ready strung with arrows, so set that they would be shot oflf and would transfix anyone who should penetrate within their reach. Rivers, lakes, and seas were imitated by means of quicksilver, caused to flow by mechanism in constant circulation. Urh She the young emperor said: It behooves not that those of my father's female consorts who have borne no children should go forth into the world ; and he required of them, hereupon, that they should follow the dead emperor to the tomb.
The num- ber of those who consequently went to death was very great. When the remains had been placed beneath ground, it chanced that some one said: The artificers who have made the enginery know all that has been done, and the secret of the treasure will be noised abroad.
When the great ceremony was over, the central gate of the avenue of approach having already been closed, the lower gate was shut, and the artificers came out no more. Trees and hedges were planted over the spot to give it the appearance of an ordinary mountain. A five hours' ride from Lin-fung brought us to Hsi-an Fu, the capital of the province of Shen-hsi, and the most important city in this part of China.
The length, height, and solidity of its walls are exceeded only by those of Peking; and the life and movement within the city, its streets paved with flagstones, the imperial palace, and imposing temples and governmental buildings, complete the resemblance with the capital. The political and com- 1 W. The pecu- harly mountainous nature of the country surrounding the Wei basin, the existence of only two practicable roads through the range on the south, the Tsung-ling shan, and two through the mountainous province of Kan-su on the west, all of which converge to this plain, and consequently to Hsi-an, have given the city from of old a very great importance, both strategical and com- mercial.
Throughout Kan-su and Ssu-ch'uan, in Mongolia, Tur- kestan and Tibet one meets lao-shan merchants and traders. At Ya-chou Fu, the center of the tea trade in western Ssu-ch'uan, most of the tea factories are owned by them, and at Lan-chou Fu, in Kan-su, more than half of the tobacco factories, the principal industry of that city, are in their hands. From Hsi-an Fu to Ch'eng-tu Ssu-ch'uan , li miles. From Hsi-an Fu to Lan-chou Kan-su , li miles. From Hsi-an Fu to Hami Turkestan , li miles. From Hsi-an Fu to Kuldja Turkestan , li miles.
From Hsi-an Fu to Yarkand Turkestan , li miles. From Hsi-an Fu to Peking, li miles. At Hsi-an is centered the trade in turquoise beads, articles much valued among the Mongols and Tibetans. They are found in Ho-nan, and used in roughly rounded pieces as taken from the mine, or in small disks, all of them having a hole drilled through them.
The Protestants have no missionaries at Hsi-an, but now and then some Bible colporteurs stop here for a few days, though, from what Chinese have told me, their books are neither eagerly bought nor carefully read, and I doubt very much if they do any good in this way, an opinion shared by many missionaries in China.
Having completed a few purchases of chinaware, tur- quoise beads, tea, etc. Gilmour advocates, however, giv- Tibetans. Mongols prefer the green- ing them tracts, but I believe that ish or off-color beads. James ially as many I have seen in the Gilmour's "Among the Mongols," p. We saw but few villages on the way; the people either living in scattered farm-houses, or in cave-dwellings, passed unobserved. In the Ch'ing ho valley were quantities of fruit-trees, pear and jujube being especially numerous.
The pears, though large, were 1 Bjreitner, " Im Femen Osten," p. Its altitude is feet tance to Yung shou some 12 miles. Instead of passing by northern China. A few miles beyond Pin Chou we passed through a small village at the foot of a high sandstone cliflf, far up in the face of which a number of little temples had been excavated; access is gained to them by ladders hanging down the rock.
All around these temples little niches have been cut in the clifE, and in them the people light small lamps so numerous that the whole surface of the rock has become blackened by the smoke. In the vertical face of the rock a number of cave-temples have been cut ; only one, however, is still in repair. The chamber constituting the temple is circular, about fifty feet in diameter and sixty high, in shape im- perfectly spherical, the top ending in a cone.
The rock inside the chamber has only been partly removed, the greater portion of it having been sculptured into a colos- sal statue of the Buddha seated cross-legged on a lotus, with raised right hand and opened left, the conventional representation of the Buddha preaching.
On either side of this figure, but a little in front of it, are two statues of demiurges. The statue of the Buddha is about forty- five feet high, the others, twenty ; all three are thoroughly Chinese in shape and ornamentation, and are covered with a thick coating of paint and gold-foil.
The other temples to the right of this one are much smaller, some of them not over six feet in height and ten broad. Kreitner says that the principal image is the largest statue of the Buddha in China ; this is a mistake, for there are a number larger, and even among stone statues this one cannot take the first place.
The prin- cipal stone statue there is over sixty feet high and incomparably finer than that of the Ta Fo ssu. These rooms were probably originally used by the priests attached to the temples, but at present they are occupied by some of the villagers. The latter river has the Toba dynasty a. It receives the Ma-lien ho excavated at the same time, as the notfartotheeastofCh'ang-wuHsien, sovereigns of this dynasty are said to which is forty li west of T'ing k'ou.
See mentions a cave-temple a few miles ''Shui-tao ti kang," VI, The average altitude of this section of country is over feet. In the center of the village, on the Kan-su side, commence rows of willow-trees, ten feet apart, on either side of the road, and they are continued from here to Liang-chou Fu, in northwestern Kan-su. It is said that Tso Tsung-t'ang, the conqueror of Kashgaria and sometime governor-general of Kan-su, having heard that it was customary in western countries to have shade trees along the highways, had them planted.
In no province of China have I met with so many patrol stations and soldiers as here. The men are well-dressed, armed with percussion rifles, and seem to discharge their duties fairly well. The troops stationed in Kan-su must be very numerous; in eveiy town and village I saw large detachments of them. This province contains numerous troublesome elements, Mohammedans, border tribes, and large numbers of convicts. The country is, moreover, very thinly settled, and highway robbery and brigandage would soon become open rebellion if not kept under strict control.
I cannot conceive why Lieutenant Kreitner should speak of such a miserable place as Ping-liang Fu, where I arrived on the 16th of January, as a " ziemlich grosse Staubstadt " with 60, inhabitants ; for, at the outside, it may have 10,, and it is one of the poorest-looking cities I have seen in China, a country of dilapidated towns.
The gi-eater part of the land within the city walls has 1 Kreitner, ojn citj p. The Taot'ai's Yamen is half in ruins, and poverty, decay, and neglect are seen at every turn. Ping-liang is, however, an im- portant market-town, and in the eastern suburbs are many well-stocked shops. The poverty of the people throughout all this part of Kan-su, is painfully visible.
The villages are composed solely of dingy, mud hovels, not over twelve feet square, lA very bad road goes from Ping- water-pipe tobacco. We passed daily llang to Han-chung in west Shen-hsi about one hundred camel loads by way of Feng-hsiang Fu, from pounds to a camel , and twenty-five which place a good road leads to Hsi- carts, each carrying pounds, an Fu. Nearly farther west, empties into the Wei.
On a long flat stove made of mud, in which a flre of grass is kept burning by means of a box-bellows, is a thin cast-iron pan, the only cooking utensil in the house ; a quern or small hand- mill, a few earthenware pots, some bits of dirty felt and cotton complete the furniture of one of these dens, in which frequently eight or ten persons live huddled together.
Only at New Year they indulge their taste for meat, eating such quantities of pork, or mutton if they be Mohammedans, that they frequently sicken and die from the eflfects of their gor- mandizing. Their only pleasure, excepting this yearly feast, is opium smoking, nor can I fairly begrudge it to those who lead such lives, people who cannot possibly rise above their present level, who are without any of the comforts, to say nothing of the pleasures, of life.
If it destroys their appetite for food, so much the better, for they will have stilled the gnawing pangs of hunger which otherwise they would feel every instant of their lives ; and under the eflfects of the drug their imagination is excited, they talk, forget their woes, and enjoy themselves for a brief while. Men, women, and often young girls and boys in- dulge in opium smoking, except they be Mohammedans, who never touch it, using invariably the native drug f w- yen which costs about cash an ounce, and which does not have as deleterious an eflfect upon them as the foreign ; PBKING, a?
The Kan-su people are a gentle, kind- hearted set, ready to oblige, and honest withal; and, though they have, like all mankind, certain objectionable traits, among which procrastination is the most provoking, I hold them to be the pleasantest people in China. After leaving Lung-te we followed a stony gorge for about twenty miles, and came to the town of Hui-ning, where there is a large number of convicts.
They roamed about the streets and in the inns, with heavy iron chains around their legs and iron collars on their necks ; some of them, who had tried to escape, with logs of wood fastened to one leg. None seemed in the least ashamed of these ornaments, and all took their punishments with the usual Chinese stoicism.
On the way down the valley leading to this town, I had repeatedly asked passers-by the name of the stream which flowed through it, but had received no satisfactory answer. At the inn at Hui-ning it was my first question to the inn- keeper, and then I learnt that its name was nothing less than Ch'i-shih-ehr-tao chiao-pu-kan ho, " Seventy-two-ar- rived-with-f eet-not-dry River.
The soil grew stonier as we neared a range of granite mountains running north and south, which a few miles farther on deflects the Yellow River in its easterly course, and forces it to take a great bend to the north. Here and there in the lower part of the valley I saw some small paddy-fields and numerous little grist-mills, built, with absolute disregard of possible freshets, along the bank of the river.
Most of the vil- lages, however, and the greater portion of the cultivated land, were on the hillsides. Some two miles more, through a rocky gorge leading due north, and we came on the Yellow River, where, issuing out of a gorge of granite rocks, deep down in which it has worn a narrow channel, it bends suddenly to the north and flows swiftly on through a broad, open country till lost in the distance.
The river was not over yards wide in the gorge, swift and beautifully clear, but partly covered with huge blocks of ice which had got jammed in this narrow channel. TheHao- ho, and LUeh-yang. Only occasionally in its upper course are its waters discolored and blackish, owing to rains in the vicinity of Ho Chou in western Kan-su. A few miles more through the loess which covers, to a great depth, the western slope of the range of mountains we had just crossed, and, passing through Tung-kuan p'u, we saw some six miles ahead of us the walls of Lan-chou Fu, and the high chimney of the now abandoned woolen factory ; and an hour or two later I had reached the house of Mons.
PAbbe de Meester, of the Belgian Catholic Mission, in the southern suburb, who most hospitably received me and gave me a little pavilion in his neat compound. Here my cart journey of miles was at an end, and I could once more stretch my limbs to their full length. What must have been the satisfaction felt by my carters also when the long drive was over, I can only imagine by my own.
It was a source of endless speculation with me how these men kept themselves in condition. When- ever the road was at all rough they went on foot ; they hardly ever slept at the inns where we stopped, as their teams occupied nearly all their time ; cat-naps caught on the way seemed to satisfy them. Their food, moreover, was of a most unsubstantial nature, vermicelli, bread, and tea a discrStion.
I changed-my drivers only twice between Peking and Lan-chou Fu, but none of them, on arriving at the end of their long journey, seemed any the worse for their work. Though not very extensive, it is densely populated 70, to 80, inhabitants ,' a majority of the people being Mohammedans. To the west of the Chinese is the Manchu city, which is but sparsely inhabited, the greater part being given up to govern- mental uses. There are no suburbs of any importance, except on the south side, where stands the closed woolen factory erected by Tso Ts'ung-tang, besides a number of tobacco factories and a few houses.
The walls are kept in excellent repair, and cannon of foreign make ai-e mounted on them. On a hill which commands the city to the west is an entrenched camp, but most of the garrison, men, are stationed in the Manchu city. A great deal of tobacco is grown around Lan-chou, and the preparation of it is the principal industry of this place. A large proportion of this business is in the hands of Shen- 1 Ereitner, op. He population as half a million, and Colo- does not mention, however, whether nel Bell, op. The Lan-chou tobacco plant is not large, but has a fine, broad leaf with very small fibres.
In the pre- paration of the famous water-pipe tobacco shui yen the leaves are not plucked until they have been thoroughly frosted, by which means, it is said, the tobacco acquires its peculiarly bright, reddish color. The first operation in the factories, of which there are some fifty, is to chop the leaves and pour a quantity of linseed oil over them. When the mass has become thoroughly saturated, it is made into blocks about four feet square, and put under a press, whereby most of the oil is expressed.
The block is then planed into fine shreds, like Turkish tobacco, and very slightly compressed in small moulds. When these cakes have dried a little, they are ready for the market. The rest of the process of manufacture of this variety is similar to that of the other kinds.
The statue of the Buddha is about forty- five feet high, the others, twenty ; all three are thoroughly Chinese in shape and ornamentation, and are covered with a thick coating of paint and gold-foil. The prevalent consumerist culture leads to a huge public cost of managing the waste generated by the current model of urban development. Many of the houses in central Shan-hsi, which are not cave-dwellings, have been, never- theless, built in the same style, consisting of several vaulted chambers cf vered by a flat roof on which is a foot or mofe of earth. Containing the True Law of Lunar Influence released The basin of the Wei ho, in which this part of the province lies, has been for thousands of years one of the granaries of China. While on the subject of the Great waU, I must note that there are two Great walls:
This industry, the annual value of which can not exceed half a million of dollars, is, as remarked, the only impor- 1 Each cake weighs two ounces cording to quality. Tso T'sung-tang, when governor-general, endeavored to add to the industries of this province the manufacture of woolen goods, and thus utilize the immense quantities of wool to be had at a nominal price from the Mongols and Tibetans. He had built, at great expense, the factory previously referred to, and equipped it with the most im- proved European machinery, but carelessness and rascality brought his venture to a premature and disastrous end.
The Eussians are so far the only foreigners who have attempted to trade in Kan-su. The Chinese had, very naturally, insisted on the Russians paying the same imposts as native merchants, since they were not in localities privileged by treaties. This did not leave the latter a sufficient margin to be able to carry on business, and they had temporarily closed, with the hope, however, of soon being able to reopen their shops, as their minister at Peking was in negotiations with the Tsung-li Yamen to have them accorded the same advantages as if doing business at open ports.
Nevertheless, it appears highly improbable that the Russians will be able to " drive British goods from Kan-su," as Colonel Bell seems to fear, for their cheapest and shortest route for receiving or ship- ping merchandise is by way of Hankow, the route taken by nearly all foreign goods, whether British, American, or German, destined to Hsi-an or Kan-su. The country around Lan-chou is not highly cultivated, nor is it even very productive, the rainfall being insuffi- cient, and the amount of snow usually small.
The winter weather, I was told by old residents, is fine, and not very cold, slightly misty, with light westerly and northwesterly winds. These climatic conditions extend to the whole val- ley of the Yellow River, west of Lan-chou, and to that of the Hsi-ning River, until near Tankar ; but north and south of Lan-chou, towards Liang-chou, and especially Kan- chou,' the rainfall is much heavier, the summer heat greater, and the winters correspondingly warmer.
What has been said of the climate of the Yellow River valley does not, of course, apply to the higher country in the moimtainous region adjoining it; there snow and rain fall in great quantities. The people in Lan-chou, and in all the cities of western Kan-su, live on vermicelli, cabbage, potatoes, and mutton. Rice is but little used by them on account of its price, Tibetans. The sales were not impor- face of the water in certain wells tant, not exceeding Tls. It is used to lubri- One of the principal difficulties to cate cart-wheels.
Samples have been contend with was the absence of any sent to Shanghai and analyzed ; the article, save rhubarb and musk, suit- oil is said to have great illuminat- able for exportation, and the agent ing power. Kerosene is brought in was remitting nearly all the money small quantities only to Ean-su where reeeived in checks to Hankow. A fine quality is grown at Kan-chou, but that is the only locality in the province where it will thrive, and the crop is not large.
The bread, made in a variety of shapes, is vastly superior to that of any other part of China, and is nearly as white and light as ours. Lan-chou Fu, until about four years ago, was the resi- dence of the governor-general of Kan-su and Chinese Turkestan. It is though at present the least traveled, also near Ho-chou, the chief Hoham- one to Tibet.
From here a good medan center in the province, and a cart-road leads to Ili-Euldja in hotbed of rebellion. Lan-chou to Liang-chou, U miles. Lan-chou to Hsi-ning, - li miles. Lan-chou to Ho-chou, - li miles. Lan-chou to Niiig-hsia, - li miles. Lan-chou to Lh'asa, - - li miles. Whenever they quoted to me passages of the Koran, it was in Chinese, and I was told that it was in this language they studied it.
Some among them recite the daily prayers, and make the prescribed ablutions, but these are few in number, and are much admired -by their co-religionists. The usual way by which one small portion beneath the nose, finds out to which sect a Moham- They are Chinese enough to comply medan belongs is by asking him if lie with the custom of letting their bums inceuse.
The first teacher of the schism followed by them was a man called Ma Ming-hsin, who lived in the middle of the last century, but the Salar themselves, who are of Turkish extraction, have been settled in western Kan-su for at least four centuries. The Russian traveler, Potanin, tangutans outnumber the Mongols in found the Salar living in twenty-four Koko-nor, but their chief habitations villages, near Hsiin-hua t'ing on the are near the sources of the Yellow south bank of the Yellow River. See River where they are called Salirs; "Proc.
The they profess the Mohammedan reli- Annals of the Ming dynasty " Ming- gion, and have rebelled against shih," Ch. In a note by I u Plan Carpin p. Turkey , visited all the towns and villages of the western part of the province, and was everywhere received with the greatest kindness. The delay caused me no regret, for the time passed quickly with my kind host and in visits to the manager of the Russian store, Mr. Vassin- ieflf who had passed the greater part of his life among the Mongols, at Kobdo and Uliasutai, and with whom, although we had to caiTyon our conversation in Chinese, I enjoyed myself immensely.
Hui-huij in guish its officials! The bottom of the valley was stony, and, in most places, unfit for culture, or even for habitation. The land on the hillsides was tilled, however, and irrigation ditches carried the river water all over it. The water is raised by immense wheels, generally fifty to sixty feet in diameter; they belong to villages, and in a few cases to individuals, who, for a small consideration, sell the water to the peasants. The price is calculated by the quantity which flows from the wheel while a given length of joss-stick bums.
The principal crops grown in this part of the Yellow River valley are wheat, tobacco, a poor quality of cotton, beans, cabbages of enormous size, red peppers, and potatoes. The villages we passed were neither numerous nor large, though several showed by the extensive ruins which surrounded them that, probably, they had been, before the rebellion, thriving little towns. At Hsin-ch'eng a branch of the Great wall crosses the Yellow River, and follows the right bank for some miles southward ; it is like every part of the wall I have seen west of Chih-li, which as said before is made of earth, without any brickwork, and it has a ditch along its front.
It also ley of the Hsiao-ssil ho. This river bears in Chinese geographies the bears also the names of Ni-shui ho name of Huang ho. The Yellow and P'ing-fan ho, and on some Euro- River, where the Hsi ho empties into pean maps it has, for some unknown it, is not over yards wide and is reason, been even given a Mongol quite shallow.
On the rocks along name, Charing gol. In this western section the Chinese occupy the large towns and principal valleys, while the non-Chinese tribes are relegated to the smaller and more elevated valleys, near the two great chains of mountains which traverse the country from east to west. Ho tui-tzii, where we stopped the first night after cross- ing the Yellow River, is a small village near the left bank of the Hsi ho.
While at Lan-chou a Mongol in the service of Mr. Vassinieflf gave me a letter to this man, tell- ing me that he would be a good one to secure as a com- panion on my travels, as he had accompanied Potanin for two years, and knew the country around the Koko-nor. Finding it would take me too much out of my way to go to San ch'uan myself, I sent him the letter with a note asking him to meet me at Lusar. Their features are distinctly Mongol and so is their language, though they make use of many Chinese and Tibetan words and expressions. They all speak Chinese and wear the Chinese dress, except on fes- tive occasions when the women don the Mongol costume.
Hue evidently misunderstood his informant who must have told him that the Jya Hor,' meaning the Tibetans along the Kan-su border, were a truculent, bloodthirsty, bullying lot, and he, thinking the name applied to the San-ch'uan Mongols, gave them all the martial virtues they long to have, but sadly lack. There are no Chinese living in the San-ch'uan, and the population does not exceed three hundred families. These people are devout Buddhists, and have several small lama- series. There are two other regions inhabited bj Horba: Mayers, " Chinese Reader's Manual," p. Potanin, " Proceedings Roy.
Soc," IX, , speaking of the Amdo Mongols Prjevalsky's Taldy or Daldy , says "they are governed by elders, whose office is hereditary, and who trace their descent from a half historical, half legendary, prince, Li Ching- wang. Some of the Amdoe pro- fess Islam, others retain Lamaism. They were said to live north of Tankar probably meaning the Ta-t'ung val- ley , and numbered some or families. It is a bare possibility that the title of the Mongol prince referred to above, viz. San-ch'uan is also of interest from the fact that Hue's servant Santan Chemda still lives there.
I spoke to the old man's nephew about him, and Abb6 de Meester knew him well. He is still hale and hearty, a lover of good cheer and gambling, and a lukewarm Christian. The mode of culture in the lower part of the Hsi-ho val- ley shows that rain and snow suffice to supply the requi- site amount of moisture only when proper precautions are taken. By this means small crops of wheat, beans, peas and other vegetables are raised. How- ever, the greater part of the valley is fallow, though bearing marks of former cultivation.
At all events, it appears likely that the name Daldy or Taldy has reference to that name, and that it represents the Chinese Ta lA-tziU It is certainly not a Mongol ethnic appellation. There were 60, tents of the Shat'o people adjacent to Pei- t'ing, which were also subject to the Huiho,andthe Huiho Uigurs never ceased from plundering them, so that they were reduced to great distress. The Kolu people and the White-robed T'u-chtteh Turks were on friendly terms of intercourse with the Huiho, and yet had to complain of their rob- beries, and, consequently, when the T'ufan sent them valuable presents to bribe them, they gave in their al- legiance.
They are generally known as Karluks. The White-robed Tu-chtteh were the ten hordes of the Western Turks. The river is a small stream about twenty-five yards wide, shallow, clear, and swift. The ranges of hills on either side of it are of red argillaceous limestone and sandstone, on top of which is a thick bed of loess.
The southern range is the higher of the two, probably averaging to feet above the river. The road is cut in the rock, in places two hundred or three hundred feet above the river, for a distance of about twelve miles ; and this presents the only serious obstacle to cart travel between Lan-chou and Hsi-ning. Here I saw large parties of gold-washers, but their profits are, I was told, very small. It is a common saying among the people, that when a man has tried in vain to make a live- lihood by every conceivable method, he finally takes to gold-washing.
Nien-po was the only city we passed between Lan-chou and Hsi-ning ; it is a small one without suburbs, but car- ries on an important business with the tribes in the adjacent momitains, especially during the fairs which are held several times a year, when large numbers of mules are sold. On some of ottr maps must have stopped the first night at this place is called Santza. Hue calls Nien-po gorge of Lao-ya p'u. On our maps, aged to take two days to travel from however, it figures as Nan po!
Their tribe is the richest in the empire, and numbers of this people may be seen during the winter months at all the great lamaist sanc- tuaries in northern China, Mongolia, or Tibet, where they nearly always bring presents of considerable value, horses, camels, silver, satins, etc.
Not far to the west of the village of Ch'ang-ch'i-tsai we passed in front of a high sandstone cliS, against the face of which a small temple painted in gaudy colors has been built. Long ago a herd of horses were grazing on the top of this cliflf, and among them a mare with a blind white colt. For some prank the mare reprimanded him, when, not recognizing his parent's voice, he kicked her. Hardly had he done so than his sight was restored; he saw his wickedness, and, filled with shame, threw himself from the cliflE, and was dashed to pieces on the rocks below.
To commemorate this act of self-destruction in vindication of the claims of filial devotion, the White Horse Temple was built on the spot where the colt met with his death. At the ends of the bridge are cribs of logs, held in place by heavy stones around and overlapping them. Each successive tier pro- jects farther over the stream than the one immediately under it, and when about twenty-five feet above the river the cribs reach to within fifty feet of each other. The in- tervening space is spanned by three long logs, and small 1 Their name is pronounced Halha.
The structure, though simple, can resist the strongest flood. Abb6 Hue, probably from memory, thus describes his passage through it: Le gouffre 6tait toujours beant devant nous ; il eut suffi d'un faux pas pour y rouler ; nous tremblions surtout pour les cha- meaux, si maladroits et si lourds quand il faut marcher sur un chemin scabreux. Hsi-ning Fu is commercially and strategically the most important town in western Kan-su; from hero diverge roads going north, south, east, and west, through broad, well-settled valleys, leading into the heart of the country inhabited by the foreign or aboriginal tribes of this border-land.
Inst, dans la Tartaric," etc. The eastern road is the one I followed to reach the city. This pronuncia- tion seems to show that Hsi-ning was first made known to Tibet- ans through the peo- ple of Ssu-ch'uan, who pronounce the charac- ter ning as lingj a sound never given it at pres- ent in any part of Kan-su. These valleys are called Pei-ch'uan, Tung-ch'uan, Nan- ch'uan and Hsi-ch'uan: The latter word is pro- nounced Ju by the Mongols.
Shaw, "Visits to High Tartary," p. The population of Hsi-ning is probably between 30, and 40,, a large proportion of which is Mohammedan. There is a garrison of men, and also a considerable floating population. Although the trade carried on here is unquestionably large, it does not amount to any great sum annually, as the merchants and traders of the place are sadly in need of capital. I was told by one of the responsible merchants that there were not over two or three houses that realized an annual profit of Tls. It is worth Tls. Foreign cotton piece-goods The hides composing the raft are sold are disliked, for they are not as strong at the end of the journey.
They sell for Tls. The lambskins, in which there is a large last two articles are much prized by trade. Cotton piece-goods, mostly the lamaa, who prefer them to the native, iron and copper ware, woolen Chinese goods; engrossing pens are stuflfs. Sending a guest repeated pres- ents of food, drinking wine with him from one cup, lead- ing his horse on his arrival and departure, holding the stirrup, and assisting him into the saddle, are all customs foreign to the Chinese, as far as my observation goes. In the localities where they reside they act as commercial agents for the Mongols and Tibetans, with whose languages they are thoroughly conversant, as all of them pass a certain number of years among the peoples with whom their families have business relations.
Their duties are hereditary, and secure to them much influence among the tribes and no inconsiderable profit. I had in my service, while at Lusar, a Fan Hsieh-chia or Tibetan Hsieh-chia, and found his knowledge of the habits, language, and people most extensive and accurate. The official title of the on all the purchases of their guests Seling Amban is Ch'ing-hai pan shih- raore than compensating them for wu ta-ch'en, that of the Lh'asa what their board cost, but such is no Amban is Ohu Ts'ang Ta-ch'en or longer the custom, at least with all "minister-resident in Tibet.
The Koko-nor, the Ts'aidam, and all northeastern Tibet as far as the upper course of the Yang-tzii, are more or less within his jurisdiction. They carry the orders of their head to the different chieftains, arbitrate quarrels between tribes, collect the money tribute, and are practically the only representatives of the Chinese government known among the remoter tribes.
So, though their pay is only a yearly allowance of Tls. Their principal source of profit is the ula. The numbers of men and animals, and quantities of food are generally much in excess of the 1 1 do not know the origin of the in Ibn Batata's Journeys Defr6- word ula, which is U8ed throughout mery's trans. It is curious to poste aux chevaux dans Vlnde on note, however, that it was used in V appelle ouldk. If, however, he takes all the pack animals, it is because he is carrying merchandise with him to sell at enormous profit, having no freight to pay on it.
When one considers that the joiu'neys of these Tungse frequently last a year, it is easy to realize that their profits make up amply for the smallness of their pay. As this pass is good for only forty days, it almost invariably expires before they can return home, and they become liable to heavy fines and even confisca- tion of their goods.
The T'ung-shih do their best to detect any traders they suspect of not having their passes in order, and the latter are obliged, if caught, to give the former presents, frequently of considerable value, for over- looking the irregularity. This system of forty-day passes has had another effect ; it has practically killed legitimate trade between the Kan-su people and the Tibetans and Mongols, and has 1 The highest officials going to or during ," p.
He on the people, and in many cases shows by numerous examples how drive them to revolt. Thus, nearly all the tea used outside the Kan-su border is from Ch'iung-chou, and is brought by these Sung-p'an traders, who are known as Sharba. He occasionally visits the great sanctuaries and lama- series situated within easy reach of Hsi-ning, and once a year he receives the Mongol princes at Tankar. He then distributes to them in the name of the emperor, and in quantities fixed by regulations, satin, embroidered pouches, knives, etc. The chieftains do obeisance, kotowing in the direction of Pe- king, in a hall reserved for such functions, and also par- take of a banquet.
Every three years these chiefs go to Peking, to carry tribute to the emperor and renew their oaths of allegiance. Twenty-five to twenty- sacrifices to the spirits of the Koko- eight days are usually employed on nor, in the presence of the Mongol this journey. On such occasions Chinese," p. The same name of the emperor. I never heard may be said of nine-tenths of the of thisceremony when in the country. In the inns at Hsi-ning one finds little comfort ; most of the space is taken up by stables for horses and mules, yards for camels, godowns for wool and oil, and what remains is used by small shopkeepers, or agents of Shen-hsi or eastern houses buying goods for exportation.
The rooms are frequently without k'angs, having only copper fire-pans in which they burn bricks made of coal and chopped straw. On the broad, flat rim of the fire-pan stands usually a pot of tea and milk. When there is a k'ang, it is often only a wooden box without any chimney or firing-hole; the planks on top are removed when it is necessary to light it, and, dry powdered manure having been spread inside it, a few live coals are put in, and the planks replaced. The fire smoulders till all the manure is consumed, and the heat thus created is considerable. I had not been in my inn half an hour before two or three policemen made their appearance, and told me that I must send my name to the magistrate, let him know whence I came, where I was going, what was my busi- ness, etc.
I was most anxious to keep out of the way of 8e-leng-o, whom I knew to be strongly opposed to foreigners, and likely to put an extinguisher on my plans of travel in Tibet, if he got any inkling of them. This is sent prefect. Passing through the cemetery outside of the city, and crossing the hills, we soon found ourselves in the valley of the Nan-ch'uan. Hardly had we lost sight of Hsi-ning than we seemed to have sud- denly left China and its people far behind, so great were the changes that everywhere met us.
No longer were all the passers-by blue-gowned and long-queued Chinese, but people of different languages, and various costumes. There were Mongols, mounted on camels or horses, and clothed in sheepskin gowns and big fur caps, or else in yellow or red lama robes — the women hardly distinguish- able from the men, save those who, from coquetry, had put on their green satin gowns and silver head and neck orna- ments, to produce a sensation on entering Lusar or Kum- bum.
There were parties of pilgrims, tramping along in single file, and dressed in white woolen gowns pulled up to the knee, each one with a little load, held by a light wooden framework, fastened to his back. They belonged to some of the Tibetan tribes living in the valleys to the north of Hsi-ning. Many other queer-looking people we passed that morning, of whom I will speak later. Our road led us towards a high, black line of nude and jagged peaks, rising like a wall across the southern extremity of the valley, and called on our maps South Koko-nor range, through a well-cultivated country dotted with numerous villages, inhabited by Chinese, and T'u- ssii, agricultural tribes of mixed Chinese, Tibetan and Turkish descent.
Here was a grove of slender poplar sap- lings, black with flocks of croaking ravens and small, yellow-billed crows; and shaggy, grunting yak, camels with gurgling moans, and little, rough ponies, led by their wild-looking masters, were drinking in the stream. I looked to the left and there were the golden roofs and spires of the temples of Kumbum, with walls of green and red; and over the hillside round- about, long, irregular lines of low, flat-roofed houses, partly hid behind clean, whitewashed walls, the homes of the odd lamas who live at this great sanctuary of the Tibetan and Mongol faith.